Achilles tang ?

bullitr

bullitr

broke but happy
So I sold my powder blue but I am
Still very afraid of the gentle giant naso tang 10" to mess with it and stress it out.After reading Achilles primer in RC over and over again and my own personal battles with ick, I am wondering if I should sell the naso and smaller scopas tang too to make the tank stress free from being harassed or infected with ick he and a yellow tang will be the only tangs in the 435.

The achilles only have ick when I brought it home but the ick when away on its own without any medication just feed it heavy with Caulerpa and pellets. He is fat and healthy so I am very hopeful that he will be my prized tang.
I even sold my aggressive fairy wrasse and anthias to ensure to aggression in the tank

IMG_6315.jpg


I have very very strong flow in the tank 2 TUNZE 6215
2 TUNZE 6305
Ozone direct feed to the skimmer( one of the best thing I have done to control ick and algae
With open aquascape
Current FTS
IMG_6329.jpg

It will be on the acclimation box for few days then I will released it .

Suggestion are welcome.


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Last edited:
wow good luck that is one of my favorite fish and he will awsome in that tank and that tank is style is on of my favorites too, a room divider! man you have good taste! good luck man
 
my LFS DT has a ~7" blonde naso and a 5" PBT. both went after the 7" black tang that he added. he thought they were going to kill the black tang. he separated the tank off with a net and after a week, they are okay together now.

i separated my tank off in half for a week with egg crate. my AT and PBT still went after each other for the first couple of weeks. the past month, the aggression between the two is very minimal.

i think if you can get past the initial squeamish, all the fish will be okay together.

i've never personally own a naso, but i've always read that they are fairly tame fish.

is the achilles eating pretty well? i did do a 1hr formalin dip on my achilles prior to transfer it to my DT. people say dips only works on parasites on the surface, but i bet it still helps a lot. i've formalin dip about 10 fish, and they all did okay.
 
Formalin can be pretty harsh. Try not to go that route if you can.

I remember when I bought a 3" Achilles Tang for $60 from Reef Hot Spot 7 years ago. Simply a stunning fish you have there to say the least. If he is to be your prized fish, do all you can to ensure his survival. Perform extra water changes in the QT and by all means keep him eating as much as you can.

I also thought that you might enjoy this. http://www.maast.org/showthread.php?70464-GOTTA-LOVE-PETCO-LOL
 
If you're positive the achilles had ich, I wouldn't put it in your display tank until you treat it for ich. I had my battles with ich in a large system too, and it's not fun! I treated my current achilles with cupramine for 4 weeks (~0.40ppm level) and it did great. Right now, it's playing the part of canary in the coal mine, as I have it in a 55 gal QT tank with 4 fish from my DT that had and were treated for ich too. I'm doing this to make sure I successfully eliminated that stupid parasite. After a couple of months, they will all move to the DT. Good luck!
 
Haffs09 said:
If you're positive the achilles had ich, I wouldn't put it in your display tank until you treat it for ich. I had my battles with ich in a large system too, and it's not fun! I treated my current achilles with cupramine for 4 weeks (~0.40ppm level) and it did great. Right now, it's playing the part of canary in the coal mine, as I have it in a 55 gal QT tank with 4 fish from my DT that had and were treated for ich too. I'm doing this to make sure I successfully eliminated that stupid parasite. After a couple of months, they will all move to the DT. Good luck!
Click to expand...

Sure!
Ich just doesn't just go away. if it showed ich and hasn't been treated, the ich is alive and well in the tank , and probably your fish's gills. Ich is nothing to be afraid of; if you take care of it in the QT. If this fish goes into your DT without treatment; sooner or later, you'll have a real ich outbreak. I'd read all the ich stickies at the top of the disease forum; an understanding of parasites life-cycle is vital info. Also, ozone will not rid an infested tank of ich.
 
I had qt fish for 2-3 months with cupramine and prazipro and go fallow on my tank but ick still show up in the tank.

Cupramine will be just mask off the mucus production of the fish. I like to have them fight it off just like in the wild.
Acanthurus have the thinnest body mucus production of all tangs that's why they are ICK PRONE.
So far he is doing great.
4aefa11d.mp4



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bullitr said:
I had qt fish for 2-3 months with cupramine and prazipro and go fallow on my tank but ick still show up in the tank.

Cupramine will be just mask off the mucus production of the fish. I like to have them fight it off just like in the wild.
Acanthurus have the thinnest body mucus production of all tangs that's why they are ICK PRONE.
So far he is doing great.
4aefa11d.mp4



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Do you have a source for the statement that Cupramine 'masks mucus production? I've never heard that.
Treating properly with Cupramine and leaving a DT fallow for 10-12 weeks will almost always eliminate ich (nothing is 100%). Fish don't get ich in captivity like they do in the wild; its 1000 times worse. No tang can fight off ich when the inevitable heavy infestation starts. This is a sure way to lose valuable fish; the only question is when.
 
It's just my opinion

The ick in the wild are far less severe because they can swim away open water from the stressors and gets clean in the cleaning station.

I want to eliminate the stressor in my tank and have active cleaner wrasse to the tank. Also provide open space, lots of flow and very good nutrition through Caulerpa ( have lots of properties to help immune system and IMO MUCUS production too).

You don't have to agree with me as its my only opinion the question I am asking if they will be good together with less possibility of stress.

Or the Achilles be better off by itself as the larger tang.








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Fish in the wild don't get the huge number of ich parasites that they do in captivity simply because of the huge water volume in the wild.Studies of cleaners show that they don't eat ich. Ich isn't the "white spot; the actual parasite is buried well beyond the cleaners reach. I hope your method works for you; but the disease section of the forum has new threads daily from hobbyists who thought that they could 'manage" ich.
 
I have ick issues for year and last year was the worst in 9 years I have been in this hobby. I I have ick in the tank right now and majority of the people that have Achilles have ick break out 1 or twice a year without casualty for years some even 10+ years.

I appreciate your input.



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It immediately had ick as soon as I put it on the acclimation box the quick disappear after releasing to main tank.
It's almost flawless now
IMG_6366.jpg


Getting clean by the cleaner wrasse
IMG_6362.jpg

IMG_6361.jpg




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Pretty tank!
If the Achilles suddenly showed ich in the acclimation box and it instantly disappeared in the DT----that can't be ich. I think you are mistaking common changes in color with ich. Many fish will show light colored spotty areas that come and go through acclimation---tangs do this a lot. Ich resembles a grain of salt. what you are describing just isn't ich; the ich white spot is not the actual parasite; its scar tissue and/or secretions that cannot just disappear in a few minutes. BTW, I doubt very much that the majority of Achilles owners have ich in their tanks. I never have.
 
Thank you sir !
When i have a Fowlr tank the ick never show up too with my very first Achilles even without medication unfortunately it died because my large powder intimidating it and it stop eating:(
 
glad to see he is coming along good. a show size achilles in a reef tank really is a stunner.

what all does he eat? do you feed it a ton?

i feed mine PE mysis 2-3x/day. some bloodworms every few days and nori every other day. i would feed nori everyday, but my angels really make a mess out of it and they go thru it in no time. mine wont touch pellets or flakes.
 
What are you guys keeping your tank parameters at to keep this fish healthy? Are uv or ozone necessary to keep this fish? What do you guys do to keep this fish healthy in general?
 
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