sump plumbing

o2bnh20

Premium Member
I've been reading your articles on overflows and I've really learned a lot. Other than this there are very few sources that describe how the mechinics of these things work. I tend to read everything I can get my hands on in this hobby before I take the plunge with my time and money. Anyway I have a few questions. I'm getting a fuge to put in my basement for my 59g upstairs. The sump will have an external pump and a siphon overflow for my 58. On the tank drain, do I really need to have a gate valve on this line. When the pump is turned off the water will drain from the tank into the sump and then stop. so why do I need a valve.
Second, on the return side, I'm thinking about just putting one gate valve after the pump with no check valve. I've read that checks require maitenance. One the other hand I guess if the power goes out, then the tank is going to drain water from both the return line and the drain line if I don't have a check valve.
what do you think. Sorry for such a long note but I'm thinking as I write!
Scott
 
I've been reading your articles on overflows and I've really learned a lot. Other than this there are very few sources that describe how the mechinics of these things work.

I noticed that too, that's why I decided to write the articles.

I tend to read everything I can get my hands on in this hobby before I take the plunge with my time and money. Anyway I have a few questions. I'm getting a fuge to put in my basement for my 59g upstairs. The sump will have an external pump and a siphon overflow for my 58. On the tank drain, do I really need to have a gate valve on this line. When the pump is turned off the water will drain from the tank into the sump and then stop. so why do I need a valve.

I have no idea. What makes you think you need a gate valve?

Second, on the return side, I'm thinking about just putting one gate valve after the pump with no check valve. I've read that checks require maitenance. One the other hand I guess if the power goes out, then the tank is going to drain water from both the return line and the drain line if I don't have a check valve.
what do you think. Sorry for such a long note but I'm thinking as I write!
Scott

A solution many people prefer to a check valve is to drill one or two small holes about a 1/4" above the water line when the pump is off. This will result in the holes being just below the water line when it is on. When the water level drops below these holes, they will let in air and break the siphon. The bigger the hole the faster the siphon will break.

You may be interested in a thread I have going right now. It describes the setup of my new 400 gallon system in detail with many pictures. Stop on by and say hi...

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=354940&perpage=25&pagenumber=1
 
hi your article on sumps was very good .i do have a guestion about diferantways of returning the water to the tank from the sump i used 3/4''tubing up to the tank the i turned it over to 3/4pvc the tank is built inot my wallthe back of the tank is in my laundry room so i ran the 3/4 pvc pipe across the front of the tank strapping the pvc to the wall above it with 4tee's to1/2'' pvc pointing down at the tank with 2 90degree elbows and two 45degree ellbows flowing water threw the tank is this ok to do? also what size pump do you rcomend for that i have a 1200gph pump in the sump pumping water up to the tank which is 120g with a overflow with a sigphon i noticed the water flowing out into the tank from the pvc intakes is rather slow can i incress the flow and what size pump do you recomend? hope i gave you enough info toanswer my question.if not can you email me @sparkey65@comcast.net
thanks sparkey
 
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