Basic Quarantine FAQ's

Wrasse quarantine
Some are sensitive to chloroquine apparently, but which?

I had a dragon wrasse from a velvet wiped out tank, qted with chloroquine at 15mgl and it died after 10 days. Had been active and feeding well until this point. Water tested fine and no obvious marks on the fish.


Planning a trio of flasher wrasse and don't want to kill them in quarantine
 
In some of the initial posts, it was stated that a QT can be set up with live rock for filtration. I have fully cured live rock that has been in the display tank for several years and was only going to use this along with a powerhead for my filtration as I did not have a sponge of HOB that was already seeded. if I do not treat with any chemicals and the fish in QT seem fine after several weeks. Is it OK to put the LR back into the DT at some point?
 
How long did you quarantine? If the fish are healthy and do not have any disease than the live rock should be ok to put into the main.
 
I'm just starting the process now. Gonna be in QT for at least 2 weeks. They are 3 fairy wrasses. I am just setting up the qt now.
 
Quiverfull said:
I'm just starting the process now. Gonna be in QT for at least 2 weeks. They are 3 fairy wrasses. I am just setting up the qt now.
Click to expand...

2 weeks is insufficient for quarantine, as most diseases won't present in that time frame. If you are observing only (no proactive treatment), 6-8 weeks is recommended, with careful observation of the fishes' demeanor and behavior. Personally, I'm not a fan of observation-only QT, as subtle behavior cues can be missed by the observer.
 
So you proactively treat even though you do not see anything wrong? The time frame for me is not an issue. I just read on some of the earlier posts that 2 weeks was the minimum. I am OK with 6 weeks but was not going to treat with medications unless I saw something go wrong.
 
Some do proactively treat, some don't. I don't treat unless necessary and do a minimum of 4 weeks since where I go runs no copper. If you don't I'd recommend having the basic meds on hand in case. Also looking at what each species is more acceptable to is a good idea as well.
 
Quiverfull said:
So you proactively treat even though you do not see anything wrong? The time frame for me is not an issue. I just read on some of the earlier posts that 2 weeks was the minimum. I am OK with 6 weeks but was not going to treat with medications unless I saw something go wrong.
Click to expand...

The only medication I proactively administer is Prazipro, as it is gentle on fish and fluke infections are relatively common in marine fish. I also put all new acquisitions through tank transfer method (TTM) to eliminate the possibility of Cryptocaryon infections. Cryptocaryon can often go unnoticed, as fish can carry subclinical infections and don't display physical symptoms. For all other diseases (Amyloodinium, Brooklynella, bacterial etc.), I treat only when symptoms are present.

It all comes down to how risk-averse you are. Personally, I'd rather remove the most common diseases from the equation and be prepared for the others.
 
I am still new to the QT approach but I have gotten to the point with my DT that I do not want to risk the investment.
A few more questions if you don't mind:
1. Where do you get Prazipro and is is OK to use with live rock?
2. What do you mean by "tank transfer method?"
 
Quiverfull said:
I am still new to the QT approach but I have gotten to the point with my DT that I do not want to risk the investment.
A few more questions if you don't mind:
1. Where do you get Prazipro and is is OK to use with live rock?
2. What do you mean by "tank transfer method?"
Click to expand...

First off, props for quarantining your fish. It's definitely worth the effort to ensure peace of mind and a provide a disease-free environment for your fish.

You should be able to find Prazipro at your local fish store. The larger chains like Petco or Petsmart don't typically stock it. It's fine to use with live rock. In fact, it's the only medication I would use with LR or inverts (although it's best used in a QT). If you can't source it locally, Amazon carries it: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LOBGYA

Here's a lengthy thread on TTM. The basic concept is moving a fish to a clean, sterilized tank every 72 hours for a total of four transfers. This breaks the life cycle of Cryptocaryon (ich) and prevents reinfection. By the final transfer, the fish should be parasite free if executed correctly.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1996525
 
Ok, so can a few of you guys go into a little bit more detail about how you transfer fish from one tank to another without the use of a net? And why? I ask this now because I currently have 9 little Resplendant Anthias in QT that will be ready for transfer in about a month. I have not begun to medicate them yet but all are eating aggressively and are consistently out and about. This, to me, means they're healthy. That, to me, also means that if they remain healthy and conditioned for another month in QT, they're going to run like hell whenever they 'feel' they're about to be caught and moved somewhere else. Not that I'm solely advocating the net, but I'd love to know which tools and methods you've found to work better.
 
I had a tomini tang die from what appears to be brook. Skin was peeling, troubled swimming, and didn't see any white spots upon death. He shares the tank with 2 chocolate clowns 4 green chromis and a yellow tang which does have ich ( white spots on him ). I did not qt any fish before adding into DT which I am now learning the havoc of not having done so.

I just set up a qt and ordered formalin ms from fishvet which should be here by tomorrow morning. All fish seem to be eating even the clowns which seem to develop a white sandy look to their skin.

I was planning on taking them out and straight into a bucket for a formalin bath then into the QT where I will also treat with formalin. I read a few stickies about how to treat with formalin, but was wondering if I should treat with copper maybe a week after the formalin treatments to get rid of the ich?

Also, would doing a formalin bath/dip on all new fish before going into the qt for further observation be ok? Then treat for anything else that pops up in a 6-8 week time frame?
 
Polkman said:
I had a tomini tang die from what appears to be brook. Skin was peeling, troubled swimming, and didn't see any white spots upon death. He shares the tank with 2 chocolate clowns 4 green chromis and a yellow tang which does have ich ( white spots on him ). I did not qt any fish before adding into DT which I am now learning the havoc of not having done so.

I just set up a qt and ordered formalin ms from fishvet which should be here by tomorrow morning. All fish seem to be eating even the clowns which seem to develop a white sandy look to their skin.

I was planning on taking them out and straight into a bucket for a formalin bath then into the QT where I will also treat with formalin. I read a few stickies about how to treat with formalin, but was wondering if I should treat with copper maybe a week after the formalin treatments to get rid of the ich?

Also, would doing a formalin bath/dip on all new fish before going into the qt for further observation be ok? Then treat for anything else that pops up in a 6-8 week time frame?
Click to expand...


My opinion is that Brooklynella kills very fast. Advanced crypto infections can cause cloudy eyes, peeling skin, labored breathing, etc. In your situation I might perform Tank Transfer Method for crypto along with short formalin baths in 5 gallon buckets too. I'm hoping for your sake it isn't Brooklynella. Would a 72 day fallow period take care of that parasite too?
 
microlady said:
My opinion is that Brooklynella kills very fast. Advanced crypto infections can cause cloudy eyes, peeling skin, labored breathing, etc. In your situation I might perform Tank Transfer Method for crypto along with short formalin baths in 5 gallon buckets too. I'm hoping for your sake it isn't Brooklynella. Would a 72 day fallow period take care of that parasite too?
Click to expand...


It was indeed brook, however I was able to react fast enough and pulled the remaining fish into qt. I did indeed do TTM with formalin baths inbetween each transfer. The fish pulled through and are now ich/brook free.

From what I was told 72 days for ich and at least 6 weeks for brook.
 
newbi here, starting my first QT, will be using Prazipro and Cupramine. My question is: anybody with experience using MEthylene blue or malachite green for QT purposes? thks.
 
I read somewhere awhile ago on here that you could use PraziPro and another medication together in the QT tank quite effectively.

Anyone remember what the other was?

ParaGuard?

Ick Shield?
 
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