Cyanobacteria

[golfnllama]

I know I brought this topic up at a past meeting, but after taking actions to remove the cyanobacteria from my tank, it has returned. I turned the lights off for a 48 hour period and covered the tank, but this did not work. I then scrubbed the cyano off each rock and did a large water change followed by 24 hour period of darkness. This worked for a few days, but now the growth is back to where it started. I have read that increased circulation might help so I moved a power-head to blow directly over the cyano on the rocks. I have not observed any progress, but it has only been two days. Do you have any other suggestions for me to try? My last resort is to use a chemical cleaner, but have yet to find one that is safe for all inhabitants.

I am still trying to find out where it came from. My nitrates are at a respectable value, 4ppm, and everything else tests fine. I feed my fish once a day and the aquarium lights are on an 8 hour day schedule.

 

[miketay89]

The last time that I had an outbreak of cyano I believe that it was using hydrogen sulfide which was being produced in my deep sandbed. I took out the sandbed to fix mine, I know that you do not have a sandbed, but do you have any areas that could be anaerobic and therefore producing H2S?

 

[golfnllama]

I'm really not sure haha can you give me some examples of something that would be anaerobic?

 

[miketay89]

An anaerobic area would be someplace that has little to no water flow. It could be a rock rubble pile. There is usually an odor associated with it.

 

[golfnllama]

It seems like there is good water flow throughout, but I can see how some of the rocks could block flow. An area in the tank where detritus collects probably indicates no current right?

 

[jh2pizza]

I would focus on reducing nutrients, maintain increased flow and verify all the things that can effect it. PO4, nitrates, old bulbs, etc.

As far as using any chemicals, I have found best results running GFO. I buy it cheap from Premium aquatics. Jeremy has bulk also, but i could not find a link on the site.

 

[sammie]

You can try blowing your nose to cure a cold but you must kill the virus to stop the symptoms. Meaning you have to stop what is feeding the bacteria before you can kill it. You can never remove all the cyano from a tank to keep it from recultivating so you must remove it's food supply just by doing what Joe was talking about above. If you've cut back on feeding, have new or newer bulbs and plenty of circulation, add a reactor with GFO and do water changes weekly of about 20% and it will SLOWLY go away. Nothing in this hobby happens quickly except a tank crash.

 

[miketay89]

How is the fight with the cyano going? Is it subsiding at all?

 

[golfnllama]

I believe I targeted the source of nutrient, phosphates. I put a chemical filter that absorbs phosphates and silicates in and so far everything looks the same. I'll keep you updated on progress though

 

[dg3147]

I agree with many of the above posters. I have battled it before and the "secret" seems to be as follows (with all of it being about decreasing available nutrients):

1) Lights out for 3 days initially. This will start the process going.
2) Cut way back on fish feeding. Even consider once every other day for awhile. Make sure you are not supplementing vitamins, etc.
3) Drive Pho4 to zero with GFO and (maybe more importantly) drive NO4 to zero. You may need to vodka dose to do this. If you go with vodka, use a very low dose and go slow. Too much vodka may actually make the problem worse.
4) Consider lights out for 48 hrs every couple weeks, and fish fasting every week or so.

 

[dg3147]

I agree with many of the above posters. I have battled it before and the "secret" seems to be as follows (with all of it being about decreasing available nutrients):

1) Lights out for 3 days initially. This will start the process going.
2) Cut way back on fish feeding. Even consider once every other day for awhile. Make sure you are not supplementing vitamins, etc.
3) Drive Pho4 to zero with GFO and (maybe more importantly) drive NO4 to zero. You may need to vodka dose to do this. If you go with vodka, use a very low dose and go slow. Too much vodka may actually make the problem worse.
4) Consider lights out for 48 hrs every couple weeks, and fish fasting every week or so.

 

[jh2pizza]

unless the system is very stable and you have been in it for awhile, I would steer clear of Vodka dosing. Just an opinion. Tried it, it works to an extent, know a few who had great systems that dosed and didnt turn out so well.

 

[sammie]

Can you say "CRASH", vodka can have that effect not only if you drink it but if you feed your tank with it.