help curing ich an a hospital tank.

jthnhale

Premium Member
Steven: I'll try to keep this as brief as I can. I just want to say thanks for the great articles you've written regarding ich.
I have a new 120 reef tank I set up three weeks ago, it was an upgrade from my 55.
It has about 130 pounds of live rock, some mixed coral, and five fish, a scopas and kole tang, two algae blennies, and a large old blue damsel.
In the dumbest move ever I placed some coral from a fellow local reefer in my tank with out quarantine, and now my two tangs are showing spots of ich. It's been two days since the white spots appeared.
The fish are otherwise healthy, and are eating normally.
My plan of attack is this.
1. remove the fish to a 29 gallon hospital tank for up to eight weeks, or more if needed.
2. I will first try feeding with the seachem medication Metronidazole, with focus, fresh garlic, all mixed with sanfransisco's brand emerald entree. I will use this method for 30 days and see if the ich goes away.
3. if the medication mix does not work, I will either try the 50% water changes you outlined, or try treating with cupramine. I know these are two drastically different methods, but I have not made up my mind which one to try.
my big problem is that I will not be able to be home for the two weeks required for either of the treatments. I will be able to have someone feed the fish in the hospital tank, which is why I was going to try the food/med combo first.
I could not have them do the required water changes or worse try to monitor the cupramine levels while I'm away.
Due to my schedule the fish may have to remain in the hospital tank for an extended period of time. I am going to get the fish out of the tank tomorrow, so that should give the tank more than enough time to clear.
4. another option I have is to switch the fish to another tank every four days, I have a 15 gallon tank I can set up as well. I know this is too small for the tangs, it would only be long enough to empty the 29, dry it and fill it with new water. though if you do this, what do you do for a biological filter? I would prefer to do the 50% water changes when I have the time, I'm just skeptical that it would remove all the ich. What if even just one tomont, or theront survives and gets transfered back to the main tank?
That's why I was thinking of using the cupramine to be sure that all the ich is dead. It seems like the only sure solution.
I thought if the fish were acclimated to the hospital tank for a while and eating well, that would keep there strength up for the time they were exposed to the copper treatment.
I would be grateful for any advice you can give me. I want to make sure the ich is gone for good. the amount of time the fish are out of the main tank is not an issue to me. if I have to get a bigger tank for the hospital tank I will.

sincerely,
Jonathan Hale
 
1. remove the fish to a 29 gallon hospital tank for up to eight weeks, or more if needed.
The 29 gallon tank should be ok and so is the 8 weeks.
2. I will first try feeding with the seachem medication Metronidazole, with focus, fresh garlic, all mixed with sanfransisco's brand emerald entree. I will use this method for 30 days and see if the ich goes away.
I understand because of your schedule trying this experimental treatment, but once you are home, even if the Ich looks to have cleared up, I would still treat with hyposalinity or copper. Just to be sure.
4. another option I have is to switch the fish to another tank every four days, I have a 15 gallon tank I can set up as well. I know this is too small for the tangs, it would only be long enough to empty the 29, dry it and fill it with new water. though if you do this, what do you do for a biological filter?
While tank transfer can work, I don't like it. I am not comfortable handling the fish that much. Plus, that method does not include a biological filter. The combination of handling and scratching or damaging the fish that this causes along with ammonia and/or lingering nitrite in the transfer tanks makes me nervous.

I would probably go with what you have laid out; medicated foods in QT to get them through until you get home followed by Cupramine treatment.
 
Steven:
thanks for the response. i thought about it last night. I'm going to start with the medicated food then use the hypo treatment, if that does not work I'll resort to cupramine. I'd like to use the least toxic treatments first. If I can spare the fish the discomfort of copper i will. I know the food and hypo are something my girlfriend can handle while I'm away, i would not want her trying to monitor the copper treatment. there are two many variables. before I do the hypo I'll invest in a ph monitor. that will at least give me some peace of mind. from that I can tell her what to do if something goes wrong.
thanks for your advice!
Jonathan
 
Thanks, I do have one. It was the best piece of equipment I've invested in. I had several plastic "toys",and a couple of old glass hydro's, they all gave me different readings. It made me crazy. I read about refractometers just at the right time.
 
Refractometers are far more accurate than the plastic boxes and their price has really fallen dramatically over the last year. Everyone should have one.
 
yes they should, they are defiantly cheap enough now, I missed out on the low price ones, oh well.
I don't understand why people still think ich is always in a fish. I've been following some new threads on ich and people keep saying the same things, it's making me crazy.
Even some of my friends who I thought knew what they were doing don't get the ich can be prevented and treated concept.
 
It is a myth that has long been with the hobby and regardless of our best efforts, will likely continue to be with the hobby for some time.
 
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