My 125G build

JoshuaG

New member
So I am doing new floors in the house soon and figure since I have to take down the old tank, might as well put up something new! I have talked with Tropical Haven, they can order me anything I want from Aquarium Masters.

I know the dimensions I want, but that is really about it. I only have experience with an AIO, so I really don't have any clue on what I need for a tank that is going to be drilled. So far I have the tank being 30x30x20, starphire on 3 sides, rimless, and that is about it. Would love to hear suggestions on corner vs center overflow, internal vs external overflow, how many holes/size I need drilled, any other options for the glass etc.

Thanks!:beer:
 
Congrats, that didn't take long :)

Regarding the overflow, the more surface skimming the better since proteins tend to accumulate at the air-water interface. For a "small" custom built tank like this I'd consider an unconventional version of a coast to coast overflow. Rather than going 30" front to back, give yourself an extra 4" or so and make the entire back of the tank an overflow chamber. This could also add to the resale value of the tank since it could be run sumpless like a nano-cube etc... and looks a little cleaner than having a tank-width external overflow box.

I'd drill either 3 or 4 holes in the bottom of the overflow for the drains and return. If you drill 4 then you'll be able to run any of the drain designs and I'd plan to run either a Herbie or Silent Failsafe. If all the holes can accomdate a 1" bulkhead you'll be in good shape.

Are you going to run a closed loop?


FWIW, Kalypso Aquatics can order you an Aquarium Masters tank, at least I'm pretty sure Elliott has mentioned it to me before. They're a club sponsor who have done a lot for the NVR. They also show a strong interest in doing what it takes to keep coral in stock and keep it healthy. Personally I would give them my business over TH... ok off soapbox...
 
Congrats, that didn't take long :)

Regarding the overflow, the more surface skimming the better since proteins tend to accumulate at the air-water interface. For a "small" custom built tank like this I'd consider an unconventional version of a coast to coast overflow. Rather than going 30" front to back, give yourself an extra 4" or so and make the entire back of the tank an overflow chamber. This could also add to the resale value of the tank since it could be run sumpless like a nano-cube etc... and looks a little cleaner than having a tank-width external overflow box.

I'd drill either 3 or 4 holes in the bottom of the overflow for the drains and return. If you drill 4 then you'll be able to run any of the drain designs and I'd plan to run either a Herbie or Silent Failsafe. If all the holes can accomdate a 1" bulkhead you'll be in good shape.

Are you going to run a closed loop?


FWIW, Kalypso Aquatics can order you an Aquarium Masters tank, at least I'm pretty sure Elliott has mentioned it to me before. They're a club sponsor who have done a lot for the NVR. They also show a strong interest in doing what it takes to keep coral in stock and keep it healthy. Personally I would give them my business over TH... ok off soapbox...

Awesome, thanks for the post. I am reading more into closed loop right now, is that the preferred way to go if the option if there to use it? I like the idea of the coast to coast overflow, floor space is a premium though so 30" is really the limit I want to push the tank size. I could always just do a 25" or so overflow, with angled corners. Something like this?

441688de.jpg


And yes I love Elliot. I was just at his place this past weekend on Fri and Sunday buying corals from him, lol. He advised just going with TH when I talked to him about it:cool:
 
i really am happy with my second coast 2 coast. this one is ext. with 3 1" drains and dead silent. if interested i could post pics. Aquarium Masters starphire is not really any clearer than regular glass. I'm on my phone or i would post pics.
 
i really am happy with my second coast 2 coast. this one is ext. with 3 1" drains and dead silent. if interested i could post pics. Aquarium Masters starphire is not really any clearer than regular glass. I'm on my phone or i would post pics.

Sure, post pics!

I also have been reading that HUGE overflow thread in the DIY section, anyone have experience with the beananimal overflow?

back-wide_500x375.jpg


http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx
 
Awesome, thanks for the post. I am reading more into closed loop right now, is that the preferred way to go if the option if there to use it?
Preferred depends on who you ask. Not preferred by me because there is no way a closed loop can match the energy efficiency of todays powerheads (Tunze, Hydor, Vortec, etc...). The appearance is a usually the reason why people go closed loop.


I like the idea of the coast to coast overflow, floor space is a premium though so 30" is really the limit I want to push the tank size. I could always just do a 25" or so overflow, with angled corners. Something like this?

441688de.jpg
That looks like a good overflow. The original coast to coast goes from one side to the other and does not go to the bottom, the plumbing comes out the back... but that also takes up space. Your idea is probably the way to go if space is tight.

And yes I love Elliot. I was just at his place this past weekend on Fri and Sunday buying corals from him, lol. He advised just going with TH when I talked to him about it:cool:

That's cool... you gave him a shot.


I run a Herbie which is similar to Bean's design (Silent Failsafe). I posted a comparison here a while back.
 
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Here's a link to my build with similar dimensions, might give you some ideas. I got my tank from Tropical Haven too and opted not to go with the "clear glass". Also make sure you go 1/2" glass regardless of what they tell you. If you have any questions feel free to PM me.

http://www.cvreefers.org/showthread.php?t=13961
 
Not the best pic but I suck with a camera. It spans the 30" side and is 5" wide by 9" deep. 3 1" drains 1 full syhpon and 2 standard durso's down to the sump works flawless. Dead quiet!
12302228c.jpg
 
The one problem I see is that i can not run vortech's on that side of the tank. If i did it again I would add 2 dry boxes so then it wouldn't be a true c2c. I plan to run K4's for now on that side and upgrade to tunze's later. Sorry for the hyjack back to your tank.
Feel free to hit me up any time I love plumbing new tanks.
 
I would be hesitant to go with one of these mass production companies that have just started making rimless tanks they don't have a track record of ADA, AGE or Elos. If they are built slopply there is a greater chance they will fail due to lack of bracing. My Elos has 5/8" glass around the sides and 1 1/2 " glass on the bottom. if it had been starfire it would have been even thicker due to the fact it is weaker than normal glass
As for the closed loop as Jacob said it is closed loop is not as efficient of versatile. the more bulk heads the greater chance for leaking. I know elos will not drill holes for closed loop because they feel it compromises structural integrity
 
Not the best pic but I suck with a camera. It spans the 30" side and is 5" wide by 9" deep. 3 1" drains 1 full syhpon and 2 standard durso's down to the sump works flawless. Dead quiet!
12302228c.jpg

Abe, that's a good pic. Don't be so hard on yourself... it's not a photo contest anyway :)

Ok lots of questions for you... If I understand correctly your overflow box is 9" deep top to bottom? Are all your drains through the bottom of the box? If Josh goes less than 30" wide like his sketch shows will he still have room for the plumbing that you have? Is your return in the box too?
 
Thanks Abe, that looks like a nice setup. I am reading about going internal vs external for the overflow right now, haven't really decided yet.

I found this mockup in the big overflow thread, I think the setup looks perfect with a few adjustments.

7b5b4104.jpg


So when I order the tank I would just have them drill 5 holes in the back of the tank. 3 in the middle for the bean overflow, two on the sides for my return. I would make the overflow be about 24" or so.

Here is a pic, just a smaller version of this pretty much:)

IMG_1192.JPG
 
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What me and a few friends have talked about is doing the same thing i did but make it internal so you have nothing outside of the stand. The pic above is how i did my first c2c and I have to say if you go this route be aware there will be a shadow and you lose a lot of landscaping room. You need to think about what you would do for wiers also because your fish will go over.
 
What me and a few friends have talked about is doing the same thing i did but make it internal so you have nothing outside of the stand. The pic above is how i did my first c2c and I have to say if you go this route be aware there will be a shadow and you lose a lot of landscaping room. You need to think about what you would do for wiers also because your fish will go over.

Hey thanks for the link. I'm not too worried about the loss of landscape room, the internal box would only be about 4"x4", but good advice on the shadow. I hadn't thought about that.
 
Browsing some more overflow threads, I found a pic of this tank. I think if I go external this would be the way to go. Maybe minus the teeth to maximize the surface skimming?

DSCN1181.jpg
 
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I really want to try and do that on a tank! More than you even know, I tryed to get eros (steve) to do his this way but it was a no go. Have you thought about Making the tank 4" wider and keeping everything inside by having a false wall like a AIO but drill the bottom then you have the best of all worlds. I would do 3 drains and your return up from the overflow box.
As for teeth you need them for sure. My gobie would go overflow surfing a couple times a week. I had a snail plug the syphon line. Lots of bad can and will happen well atleast it did for me.
 
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