Lanthanum chloride
- Thread starter Gary Majchrzak
- Start date
makers marc
New member
I was wondering if a heater is necessary, I have myself in my brute trashcan some pukani, saltwater, and powerhead only at this point. Temp gets as low as 45 at night?
Nitrosomonas and other nitrifying bacteria can survive at temperatures lower than 45, however growth rate is decreased by 75% at 46-50° F. I am trying to get my rock seeded as much as possible before using
makers marc
New member
Got it. Since ill be letting the rock sit dry for weeks after curing out Pukani, I'm not concerned about cycling bacteria at this point.
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Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
of all the threads to go viral!
of all the threads to go viral!
I mean... I've taken part in some really great threads on RC over the years.
I would have NEVER picked this one to take off!
of all the threads to go viral!
I mean... I've taken part in some really great threads on RC over the years.
I would have NEVER picked this one to take off!
Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
I did not realize that until you posted it. It doesn't seem that long ago!
Since the start of this thread I've used only TWO bottles of the Seakleer LaCl3 (somebody gave me a half bottle and I still have half bottle downstairs) and I've done only TWO purchases of 10 micron socks (10 socks each time).
This should exemplify how sparingly I use Lanthanum chloride!
Clorox Phosphate Remover Trip Report:
Curing some cycled rock in a rubbermaid, phosphate tested at .5ppm.
Got the Clorox, dosed 4tbsp 3 times over 8 days. (it is ~1/3 the strength as SeaKlear)
It has been 2 days since my last dose and I tested the phosphates today at .058ppm.
I am going to wait 4 more days before testing again without dosing to see if that is stable. If so, it will be good to go in a new display.
For dosing, it was very easy not being in a tank. I would just dump 4tbsp in without any socks or dripper.
Curing some cycled rock in a rubbermaid, phosphate tested at .5ppm.
Got the Clorox, dosed 4tbsp 3 times over 8 days. (it is ~1/3 the strength as SeaKlear)
It has been 2 days since my last dose and I tested the phosphates today at .058ppm.
I am going to wait 4 more days before testing again without dosing to see if that is stable. If so, it will be good to go in a new display.
For dosing, it was very easy not being in a tank. I would just dump 4tbsp in without any socks or dripper.
makers marc
New member
Quick update for me. After testing at 200ppb 2 wks ago, the water tested at 17ppb or ~.05ppm today.
I've been fairly aggressive with the Phosfree dosing twice a day with a half cap. The pukani is covered in the fine, dusty, precipitate that ill wash off later.
Very happy with the process.
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I've been fairly aggressive with the Phosfree dosing twice a day with a half cap. The pukani is covered in the fine, dusty, precipitate that ill wash off later.
Very happy with the process.
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How long did you wait after dosing to test? It takes time for the phosphate to leech back out after dosing and equalize in the water again.
So testing soon after dosing would not be accurate. I'm trying to figure out what a good length is
makers marc
New member
I tested 24 hrs after my last dose. Not saying there isn't any more leaching to happen.
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makers marc
New member
Not sure why you would need that, but I've never heard of that exisiting.
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It would be interesting to see how much lanthanum remains after using LC treatments, how long it takes to exit the system if it even does, and determine toxicity at extreme levels
Intersting thought; though I'm not aware of any available tests for lanthanum.
It binds with phosphate and/or carbonate and never really exists the system but remains out of solution as precpitant at normal aquarium pH levels.
A key is to precipitate it all (most as lanthanum phosphate vs lanthanum carbonate preferably), and trap the the precipitant with a fine filter before it gets to the tank. This is why slow dosing in a high flow area is the preferred method . Otherwise , unprecipitated free lanthanum which is smaller than water molecules can enter the tank and precipitate there potentially harming the life there.
It binds with phosphate and/or carbonate and never really exists the system but remains out of solution as precpitant at normal aquarium pH levels.
A key is to precipitate it all (most as lanthanum phosphate vs lanthanum carbonate preferably), and trap the the precipitant with a fine filter before it gets to the tank. This is why slow dosing in a high flow area is the preferred method . Otherwise , unprecipitated free lanthanum which is smaller than water molecules can enter the tank and precipitate there potentially harming the life there.
Update: Tested again 4 days later and it is still at .058, looks like it is holding.
Following this thread and good to see it has been 9 years old. A question is that I'm running GFO but PO4 keeps at around 0.16, the tank is with GHA issues so I want to keep the PO4 lower so I'm starting with lanthanum dosing as well. But I heard there could be issues with lanthanum dosing vs. GFO as lanthanum will strip PO4 from GFO. Any thoughts on that?
A question is that I'm running GFO but PO4 keeps at around 0.16, the tank is with GHA issues so I want to keep the PO4 lower so I'm starting with lanthanum dosing as well. But I heard there could be issues with lanthanum dosing vs. GFO as lanthanum will strip PO4 from GFO. Any thoughts on that?makers marc
New member
Heres 75 lbs worth of pukani phosphate precipitate, using phosfree for 3 weeks.
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